Monstera Adansonii — the Swiss Cheese Plant with the small, hole-filled leaves — is one of the most rewarding vines to propagate. Unlike its larger cousin Monstera Deliciosa, which requires patience and luck to get good results from cuttings, Adansonii roots easily, quickly, and reliably. A healthy cutting in the right conditions will show roots within three to five weeks, and the plant grows fast once established.
If you’ve been hesitant to cut into your Adansonii, don’t be. This is exactly the kind of plant that rewards propagation — and every cutting you take encourages the mother plant to branch out and become fuller.
What You Need
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If using the moss method below, prepare sphagnum moss for propagation; for either method, clean snips protect the cutting from ragged damage.
- Sharp, clean scissors or pruning shears (sterilized with isopropyl alcohol)
- Clear glass jar or propagation vase (for water method)
- Sphagnum moss and a clear sealable bag (for moss method)
- Clean water
- Rooting hormone gel or powder (optional, speeds rooting by ~30%)
- A warm spot with bright indirect light
How to Identify a Node on Monstera Adansonii
This is the most important skill for propagating any Monstera, and it’s worth spending time on before you cut.
On Adansonii, nodes appear as slight swellings or joints on the stem — look for the point where a leaf attaches to the stem. The node sits right there, at the base of the leaf petiole (the short stem connecting leaf to vine). On a bare section of stem (between leaves), nodes appear as slightly raised rings around the vine. Aerial roots — the brown, stubby growths that emerge from the stem — almost always grow from nodes, which makes them easy to locate.
The rule is non-negotiable: a cutting without a node will never produce roots. A single leaf, no matter how healthy, cannot regenerate into a new plant. You need at least one node, and at least one leaf to power the rooting process.
Method 1: Water Propagation (Recommended for Beginners)
Water propagation is the easiest method for Monstera Adansonii and delivers consistently high success rates. The clear container lets you watch root development in real time — satisfying and informative.
Steps
- Identify a stem section with two or more nodes. The more nodes, the more root points — and the fuller the resulting plant will be.
- Cut just below the lowest node. The cut should be clean and made in a single motion, not a sawing action.
- Remove any leaves attached to the nodes that will sit below the waterline. Submerged leaves rot and introduce bacteria.
- If using rooting hormone, apply a small amount to the cut node before placing in water.
- Fill a glass or jar with clean room-temperature water and submerge the bottom node(s). The remaining leaves should sit above the waterline.
- Place the jar in a warm spot (68–80°F / 20–27°C) with bright indirect light. Avoid direct sun — it warms the water too fast and promotes algae.
- Change the water every seven days. Monstera Adansonii is more forgiving than Hoyas about water cleanliness, but weekly changes still prevent bacterial buildup.
- Roots typically appear within 10–21 days and reach 1–2 inches within five weeks.
Timeline: Roots appear in 2–3 weeks. Ready to pot in 4–5 weeks.
Method 2: Sphagnum Moss Propagation (Best Root Quality)
Sphagnum moss produces roots that transition to soil more easily than water-grown roots. If you’re planning to keep the cutting in soil long-term, moss gives it a head start.
Steps
- Soak sphagnum moss in water for 10 minutes, then wring it out thoroughly. It should feel moist but not wet.
- Take a cutting with two to three nodes and at least one leaf. Apply rooting hormone gel to the bottom node.
- Wrap the bottom node(s) generously in moist sphagnum moss.
- Place the wrapped cutting in a clear sealable plastic bag or a clear propagation box. Close it mostly shut, leaving a small gap for airflow.
- Set in a warm spot with bright indirect light.
- Check moisture every five to seven days. If the moss feels dry, mist lightly and reseal.
- Roots are visible through the clear container or bag within three to four weeks.
- Pot directly into soil once roots reach 1–2 inches — no transition period needed.
Timeline: Roots appear in 3–4 weeks. Ready to pot in 4–6 weeks.
Whole Stem Division for Larger Plants
If your Adansonii has grown into a long, mature vine, you can propagate an entire section of stem rather than a single cutting. This technique is called stem division.
Cut a stem section with three to five nodes and multiple leaves. Instead of rooting the entire section at once, you can cut it into individual node cuttings — each cutting containing one node and one leaf — and root them separately. This gives you multiple plants from a single stem and is efficient when you want to share cuttings with other growers.
Each individual node cutting is rooted using either the water or moss method described above.
When to Pot Up
Transfer your rooted cutting when roots are 1–2 inches long. Choose a pot that is slightly larger than the root ball — Adansonii doesn’t like excessive soil around its roots, as unused wet soil increases rot risk. A 3–4 inch pot with a well-draining mix (standard potting mix cut with 20% perlite) is appropriate for a single cutting with three to five leaves.
After potting, water once and allow the soil to dry slightly before watering again. Expect a brief adjustment period of one to two weeks, followed by rapid new leaf production.
Expected Timeline
| Week | What to Expect |
|---|---|
| Week 1 | Cutting stabilizes in water or moss |
| Week 2 | First root nubs appear at the node |
| Week 3 | Roots reach 0.5–1 inch |
| Week 4–5 | Roots reach 1–2 inches — pot up |
| Week 6–8 | First new leaf appears on the potted cutting |
| Week 10–12 | Established plant, normal care begins |
Troubleshooting
No roots after 4 weeks: Confirm a node is present and submerged (in water) or in contact with moist moss. Check temperature — anything below 65°F significantly slows root development.
Stem turns mushy at the cut end: This is bacterial rot. Remove the cutting, trim back to firm, healthy tissue, and start fresh with clean water or fresh moss. In water propagation, increase change frequency to every three to four days.
Leaves yellowing on the cutting: Minor yellowing of the lowest leaf is normal during propagation. If multiple leaves yellow rapidly, the cutting is under stress — check temperature, light, and water cleanliness.
Root tips turning brown: This usually indicates the water has gone stale or that the roots have been left in water too long and need to be potted. Transfer to soil immediately.
For care details once your Adansonii is established, see the Monstera Adansonii care guide. If you’re also growing the larger species, the Monstera Deliciosa care guide covers similar environmental needs at a larger scale. The Rhaphidophora Tetrasperma is another excellent climber that propagates using the same technique.
